An impressive, vertical arm strainer in a wild setting! A great old route with aid turned into a modern hard route.

Magnetic Wall Direct

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

To reach the start of the route, leave the Fountain Ledge path approximately 100m along from the corner beneath the cable car lines. Scramble 40m leftwards up the slope to the highest point of scrambling.

On the highest ledge walk a few metres out to the right to the corner. The route starts here up a clean white face.

Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Magnetic Wall Sector

Route Description

The route starts up a clean white face.

  1. 25m '23': Climb a slight crack in the white face and continue up to a small overhang.
    Move to the right and go up to the bolted abseil stance.
    This is a very good technical pitch
  2. 20m  '22': From the bolted stance at the top of the first pitch climb up, bypassing the first roof on the right.
    Climb up to a chamber beneath a 45 degree outwards sloping roof.
    Do an insane manoeuvre to get fingertips onto a juglet over the lip.
    Cut loose over the void and pull up onto the face. Continue up to the platform stance for the last pitch.
  3. 10m  '12': Walk clockwise around a big block and ascend a chimney to a stance on the right.
  4. ​37m  '19': Climb up 2m and traverse to the right to a corner.
    Continue to the right for a metre or two then climb to the top.

Thanks to Hilton for sharing his hard work documenting his climbs. Visit his page: https://www.hiltondavies.com

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

60m double rappel ropes are needed if using the bolted rappel for approach or descent!

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

D

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60m double rappel ropes are needed if using the bolted rappel for approach or descent!

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Interactive Icons

GAIA GPS
Click to see the GPX track.
Requires GAIA GPS App
Google Maps
Click to see the Parking Area . Requires
Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
A bold lead
A bold lead with potentially serious consequences (including a ground fall) to falling off.
Crime
Beware of high incidence of crime
Exposed Sections
Beware of exposed sections
Flooding
Be ware of localised flooding and swollen rivers & river crossings
Highball
Warning - Highball boulder
Lightning
Beware thunderstorms and lightning
Scramble Sections
Sections involve scrambling and may require a rope
Different Start & End Point
The starting and ending points for this adventure are at different locations and may require seperate transport.
Water Shortage
Water can be scarce, be sure to carry sufficient.

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