Are Totem Cams really a cut above the rest?

Tinie Versfeld has a reputation as one of the hardest trad climbers in the country. He also has a reputation for being pedantic about what gear to include in his rack! So we were interested to discover that he has added five Totem cams to the mix. Mark Johnston chatted to him to find out why.

What made you decide to add Totems to your trad rack?

“They are fundamentally different from other brands. You can use them in places where no other cams can go.”

What is it about Totems that makes them so different?

“The head size. Totems have narrower heads than other cams, which means you can place them in pockets and other small features where a regular cam would be too wide to fit.

The narrow head is also an advantage in uneven cracks, where the bumpy surface can result in regular cams sitting awkwardly. Because the Totems make contact with a smaller area, you can often place them in between irregularities so the lobes sit more evenly. They’re also more secure in cracks that aren’t perfectly parallel.

Another great feature of Totem cams is that each lobe can work independently i.e. you don’t need all four lobes to be in contact with the rock for the cam to hold. This allows for more secure placements in irregular or flared cracks, and in extreme cases means that half the cam can be sticking out of the rock and it will still hold – though this is only recommended for aid climbing or an emergency rest when you’re pumping out.” (See the video below for a more detailed explanation of this unusual feature).

What else do you like about them?

“Totems have an excellent expansion range. They’re also super flexible – definitely the most flexible cam I’ve ever used. This means they’re less inclined to walk in horizontal cracks. You can also safely load them over the edge of a rail, where less flexible stems can end up bent after you’ve taken a major whipper onto them.

Another advantage of Totems is that they have multiple clip-in points. The sling has two lengths, and you can also clip directly into the little u-shaped loops where the sling attaches to the cam for bodyweight-only placements (i.e. aiding and resting).

Who should buy these cams?

I wouldn’t recommend Totem cams for people who are starting off. When buying your first rack you’d be better off with a set of Camalots or Wild Country friends. But for climbers who are pushing the grades and require greater versatility you can’t beat Totems. They really can be the difference between a poor placement and one that is bomber.

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