Traversing on Clifton Crest. 📸 Trystan Firman collection

Lionshead

Overshadowed, literally, by Table Mountain, Lions Head offers much of what Table Mountain lacks and is especially good in the South Easter.

Traversing on Clifton Crest. 📸 Trystan Firman collection

Traversing on Clifton Crest. 📸 Trystan Firman collection

Lionshead

Overshadowed, literally, by Table Mountain, Lions Head offers much of what Table Mountain lacks and is especially good in the South Easter.

Traversing on Clifton Crest. 📸 Trystan Firman collection

Lionshead

Overshadowed, literally, by Table Mountain, Lions Head offers much of what Table Mountain lacks and is especially good in the South Easter.

More accessible, less committing, sheltered from The South Easter - and it has a REAL summit! Lions Head Trad Climbing is wholly underrated. The Granite sector is a welcome change, and can be linked to the upper Sandstone sections for a longer true ascent.

With the option to single pitch most of the multi pitch routes (as well all the Eastern flank's climbing being only single pitch), Lions Head is a common venue to learn to trad climb (and why we instruct our Accelerated Trad Leader course here), or for a pre or post work climb.

The Granite sector is typical on angle / slab climbing on hard featured (big crystals) Granite varying from 2 to 4 pitches in length. The Upper Sandstone is slightly more broken as a crag with prominent ledges offering easy stances while the face climbing is similarly featured to Table Mountain.

The lower paths (not useful for climbing unless you are walking back to town) have been occasionally targeted by petty crime - be vigilant.

Best mountain footwear for hiking, approach or mountain running in South Africa
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Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Single Pitch
Traversing out above the Atlantic, on Clifton Crest, Lionshead Sandstone.

Lionshead Sandstone

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Some gem's to be found. Generally lasts longer when weather closes Table Mountain down, and a great option for low commitment tradding where time is short. Quite good for beginners to hone their skills.
30
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1.0
hr
m ASL
PM Shade
Trad
Multi Pitch
Single & Multi Pitch Options
Single Pitch

Lion's Head Granite

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Boulder
Sport
Trad
Big wall
Alpine
Ice
Most of the climbing on Lion’s Head is on the 100m high granite domes above Fresnaye on the south-western aspect of Lion’s Head. The short walk in and large variety of routes make for a pleasant outing.
10
min
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0.5
hr
m ASL
AM Shade
Single Pitch
2 Pitches
3 Pitches
Special
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Tips & Tricks

  • The West Face (Granite & Sandstone) is often protected from the SE wind
  • The Granite section is often climbable if the upper crags are in cloud or drizzling very lightly
  • Don't leave valuables in plain site in your car (and, please, anywhere in South Africa, don't leave a laptop in the car)

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.