One of the all-time classic routes on Fountain Ledge.

Staircase

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

(click the GAIA icon for GPX)

Descent

Crag Descent:
Fountain Ledge
Sector Descent:
Staircase Ledge

Route Description

Start: Along Fountain Ledge, below the big roofs, there is a free-standing block. Just to the right of the block, is a well worn recess. (Water drips here in winter.) Climb the recess for 8m (grade 10), exit left at the top. Walk left, over some boulders to the base of the obvious staircase-like chimney.

This water-recess is the original first pitch and is often soloed to reach the other routes starting from the Staircase Ledge.

  1.  17m '12': Climb the slab to gain access to the chimney. Halfway up it is possible to step out left and climb the stepped recess to the ledge. Alternatively continue up the first
  2. 24m '12': Traverse right. The hardest move is the step over. Continue around the corner until you can stand. Stance here so that communication does not become an epic. Continue until you get to a large ledge with a flat, waist-high block on it. Stance between the block and the main wall.
  3. 18m '13': Two metres left of the final pitch of Staircase: Climb a vertical fault for 9m, then rail left.
    Climb an overhanging crack for 4m, then traverse right and up to the large ledge.
    On the right is a squeeze hole and scramble to the top, or find the abseils at the left-hand end of the ledge.
  4. Climb the irregular crack above the left-hand edge of the block. This widens higher into a short chimney. The chimney is eventualy closed by an overhang. Pass this on the right to the ledge above.

Walk left along the ledge to the abseils or through the squeeze hole to scramble to the top.

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.
A bold lead
A bold lead with potentially serious consequences (including a ground fall) to falling off.
Crime
Beware of high incidence of crime
Exposed Sections
Beware of exposed sections
Flooding
Be ware of localised flooding and swollen rivers & river crossings
Highball
Warning - Highball boulder
Lightning
Beware thunderstorms and lightning
Scramble Sections
Sections involve scrambling and may require a rope
Different Start & End Point
The starting and ending points for this adventure are at different locations and may require seperate transport.
Water Shortage
Water can be scarce, be sure to carry sufficient.

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