A Monteseel classic that every local climber should sample

Utopia

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Approach & Descent»
Description »
Gallery »

Approach

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Descent

Route Description

A Monteseel classic that every local climber should sample. It is also often used for instructing multi-pitch climbing skills. The climbing is high and exposed and some careful route finding is needed.
Abseil 15m down from the chains above the island. Scramble down the gully to the west and walk 50m till under a huge roof with an easy, angled recess below. Parts of the first pitch can be dirty, due to an eagle’snest under the roofs above.

  1. Pitch 1 (13): A tricky move up gains a ledge at the bottom of the recess, which is often dirty and grassy.
    Climb the recess to the huge roof and a big handrail running to the right.
    Step out to the right heading for a cubbyhole 10m away.
    Climb into the cubby then out the other side, and keep climbing to another, longer cubby.
  2. Pitch 2 (12): Exit the cubby and climb easily along the rail and ledge system for 15m to a piton.
    Just past the piton, step down onto a ledge and not-so-good rock.
    Traversea short distance until able to climb into a long cave with a ledge.
    Scramble along the ledge over boulders to a small tree.
  3. Pitch 3 (14): From the tree, climb steep, clean rock to a piton, then diagonally right past a piton to a ledge and two pitons.
    From the pitons, traverse right 2m then straight up a steep wall to a ledge and right of a small tree.
    Move up an easy recess to the top

Note:
When getting to the big ledge with the small tree on pitch 3, do not be fooled by the piton to the left of the tree. Climbing the face left of the tree looks easy, but it is not - and doing so has to date resulted in no less than three serious accidents !!

Alternate Description

Tips & Tricks

Video

Drakensberg Grading
French / South African
YDS

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Icons and Symbols

AM Shade
Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade
10B | Ch
Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)
Alpine
Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )
Ice
Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills
Sport
Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES
Sport & Trad
Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles
Trad
Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties
2 Pitches
Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route
Special
Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA
Standard
Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.
50m
Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.
Double
Typically climbed using half ropes
Corner
Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.
Crack Climb
Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.
Overhang
Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.
Overhang
Overhanging, usually involving roofs.
Powerful
Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.
Slab
Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.
Steep
Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y
Technical
Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.
Vert
General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

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