Van Stadens Gorge

This area has an enormous variety of climbing. There are over 300 sport and 200 trad routes from easier lines around grade 14/4c to hard routes like 'Troll' 34/8c, Van Stadens has something for everyone.

Van Stadens sports 2 minor bouldering areas with limited routes, the hardest being 8A.

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The rock is an extremely quartzitic making it hard and lacking the friction of sandstones and limestones. Most of the climbing is overhanging or vertical with good edges. For these reasons its best to climb in the shade, luckily there are many crags in shade all day or with majority shade in the morning or afternoon. When the weather is worse climbing can still happen at Cleopatra and Platform even in rain.

The river is a great spot to cool off on a hot day, there are many swimming pools scattered through the gorge.

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Bees, snakes and baboons can be hazardous and are best avoided.

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Access to most of the gorge is through the Water Affairs land. Park outside the gate where the gps pin is and walk from there.

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girl bouldering in rocklands cederberg outdoor climbing

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Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Pump House

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Short walk-in to steep sport climbing.

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

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Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Milestone

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Easy approach with shorter easier routes

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

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3 Pitch

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Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

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Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Poop Scoop

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A sweet overhanging crag with an airy setting and short walk-in.

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

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1 Pitch

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3 Pitch

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Std Rack

Special Gear

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Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Mantis

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A good mixture of easy and hard face climbing at an aesthetic wall.

min

hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

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2 Pitch

3 Pitch

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Overhang

Powerful

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Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Easter Bunnies Secret Hide-out

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

All day shaded climbing with a spectacular view

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

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1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

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5 Pitch

6 Pitch

6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Cleopatra's Wall

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A long overhanging wall with an abundance of routes, set over the dam.

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

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6+ Pitch

Std Rack

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Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

The Beach

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A great intermediate crag, very scenic with a comfy base.

min

hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

4 Pitch

5 Pitch

6 Pitch

6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Platform

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Consistent overhanging riverside climbing at a moderate grade

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

4 Pitch

5 Pitch

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6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Pipe Bridge

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Longer sustained vertical climbing

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hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

4 Pitch

5 Pitch

6 Pitch

6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Slayer

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

Multi-pitch sport climbing on a technical slab face

min

hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

4 Pitch

5 Pitch

6 Pitch

6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

Single Pitch

Multi Pitch

Single & Multi Pitch Options

Tyson's Crag

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Boulder

Sport

Trad

Big wall

Alpine

Ice

A competitor for PE's best sport climbing crag

min

hrs

m ASL

All Day Shade

AM Shade

All Day Sun

PM Shade

1 Pitch

2 Pitch

3 Pitch

4 Pitch

5 Pitch

6 Pitch

6+ Pitch

Std Rack

Special Gear

50m

60m

70m

80m

Double Rope

Face

Overhang

Powerful

Slab

Technical

Vert

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GAIA GPS

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Google Maps

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Google Maps

Icons and Symbols

AM Shade

Morning ; Afternoon ; All Day or NO Shade

10B | Ch

Equipped with x number of Bolts & Chains (lower off rings)

Alpine

Area's or routes located in mountainous regions and requiring multiple mountain skills (navigation ; extreme weather ; self sufficiency ; remote )

Ice

Area or Route requires Ice Climbing and associated Winter skills

Sport

Area or Route is fully equipped as a sport climb. Separate distinction for # of PITCHES

Sport & Trad

Area or Route is a mixture of SPORT & Trad climbing styles

Trad

Area or Route requires Traditional equipment and experties

2 Pitches

Indicates the typical # of pitches of the area or route

Special

Indicates that a specialised Rack or Traditional equipment is typically required and will be mentioned in the Route Description BETA

Standard

Indicates that typically a Standard Traditional Rack will suffice. Typically in ZA that is a 8-10 Cams + 10-15 wires/nuts.

50m

Indicates the minimum length rope needed to typically climb safely.

Double

Typically climbed using half ropes

Corner

Climbs or mostly climbs a corner system. This often requires stemming as a technique.

Crack Climb

Follows a crack-system predominantly and may require good jamming technique.

Overhang

Indicates the overall style. Face climbing is steeper than slab usually on small holds and edges, often feeling delicate / insecure.

Overhang

Overhanging, usually involving roofs.

Powerful

Powerful style is often in conjunction with another style but feeling more powerful than is common for the style.

Slab

Usually not quite vertical and requiring smearing and friction techniques.

Steep

Consistently steeper than Vertical but not overhanging / roof-y

Technical

Additional to general styles, requiring careful sequence and thoughtful climbing.

Vert

General vertical climbing with no other defining style.

Van Stadens Gorge

Van Stadens Gorge

Van Stadens Gorge

Pump House

Milestone

Poop Scoop

Mantis

Easter Bunnies Secret Hide-out

Cleopatra's Wall

The Beach

Platform

Pipe Bridge

Slayer

Tyson's Crag

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